Upper Union’s new winter menu is a flavourful trip from North Africa, to the Middle East, to the Indian sub-continent, to Cape Malay.
When Upper Union, in Gardens, opened in January 2023, Chef Amori Burger brought her philosophy of food to the Mother City. ‘Don’t just eat because you have to,’ she said. ‘Food for me, is this concept of sitting around the table and sharing and eating together.’ It’s the big family-and-friends Sunday lunch as inspiration.
It’s incorporated into her winter 2024 menu, starting with the Seasonal Chef’s Menu, which has two options, each for two people sharing. Both start with the house bread course of individual kubaneh, one per person, and three choices of butter (mebos and Klein River Gruberg, Mont du Toit EVOO, and Cream of the Crop makhani). They’re all good, but our favourite is the Mont du Toit. Kubaneh is a traditional Yemeni bread. Each menu also ends with a friandise.
The Pasture Menu (R750 per person) comprises oysters, a choice of starters, a main with a host of sides for sharing around the table, and a choice of desserts; the Garden Menu (R650 per person) is the vegetarian option, also with a choice of starters, a main with the sides, and a choice of desserts.
Or you can curate your own meal from the list of small plates, of which there are 17 – your meal also starts with the bread course. Although the menu advises you choose four to five and share between two of you, it really is impossible to choose just a few. So, we went for greedy. The choices range in price from R95 for the aloo tikki with date piccalilli, 96-hour sourdough slangetjies and marigold (totally moreish), to R290 for the shuwa lamb shoulder, which comes with parsnip, pimento zhug (a spicy hot sauce from Yemen), Brussels sprouts and kapokbos chermoula.
Kapokbos is an aromatic shrub, in English known as wild rosemary. Livestock love it, and in the Karoo it’s one of the shrubs that give the distinctive, sought-after taste to the meat. You’ve heard of Karoo lamb? That’s what we’re talking about.
First, though, a cocktail – a Cape to Casablanca for me and a Corpse Reviver No2 for my companion. The C to C added to the whole warmth idea, made as it is with tequila, Ardberg Whiskey, honey, harissa, roasted carrot, dry sherry. Cruxland Kalahari Gin and Caperitif Vermouth make up the base of the Corpse Reviver. Just as useful in heating up the cockles.
It’s a splendid, though small, cocktail menu, just as it is a splendid, though small, wine list. ‘I didn’t want a boring wine list,’ Amori said. ‘I wanted something you don’t see every day, more bespoke, but not too expensive.’ We had a glass of Le Chant Rouge, a signature blend of Merlot, traditional Bordeaux varietals, Shiraz and Sangiovese, from the Polkadraai Hills ward in Stellenbosch.
And so to the food. Our favourites were the aloo tikki and the paneer lovable with poppadum, coriander and apple slaw, and tamarind chutney. Just the right balance of tamarind heat and cool from the slaw. Coming a close second was the king oyster mushroom with whipped tofu (it’s whipped with butter beans and is wonderful), chilli crack, Union HP sauce and almond.
Upper Union’s winter menu brings all the taste and enjoyment. And it’s good value; despite the ‘small plates’ legend, you roll out of the restaurant very full and satisfied. Our verdict: a delicious and convivial night out.
Location: 3 Upper Union Street, Gardens, Cape Town
Hours: Monday – Sunday: noon-4pm and 6pm-10pm
Public holidays: Contact Upper Union
Contact: 021 891 0360
Website: upperunion.co.za
Instagram: @upperunion_restaurant
Facebook: UpperUnionRestaurant
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Written by Lorraine Kearney.
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Feature image: Supplied
