Franschhoek is stuffed to the rafters with fine dining restaurants, and not for nothing is it known as the culinary capital of the country. The top feather in its cap is the sublime Épice, which was named not only South Africa’s Best Restaurant, but also Africa’s Best Restaurant in the World Culinary Awards 2024 in October.
Your meal at Épice, which means ‘spice’ in French, is a journey, which starts when you the hushed Le Quartier Française. Here, the restaurant’s subdued lighting and earthy tones set the scene. Walk further, and light pours in from the cool green courtyard, planted with lemon trees and other greenery.
On our visit, the doors were stacked open, all the better to smell the fresh flora and earth. It complemented the aromas flowing through the restaurant and from each dish.
The chef
Head chef Charné Sampson (previously the sous chef at La Colombe) explains that she has always loved spices, but it’s not about heat. Rather it is ‘layers of flavour that roll over the palate in waves’.
First on the list is a cocktail from the mobile cocktail bar that is rolled up to your table. I chose Fire, ablaze with cayenne, cinnamon, grapefruit and Woodford Reserve bourbon.
Another cart rolls up filled with the many spices you are going to taste. Each is explained, its flavour profile unpacked, it’s provenance discussed.
The fiery cocktail is followed by the yellow morsel that is the palate cleanser; do as you are told and eat it in one bite.
All the spices
The degustation starts with Cardamom, a ladder of the three cardamoms – green, white and black, the black a sumptuous shot of umami heaven. The bread course is the most amazing bread basket of all: a brass plate is placed in front of you, various spices and oils are strewn across it by an expert hand and it is in here that you dip your bread. We’d travel miles just for this.
We learn about hing, known in Indian kitchens as asafoetida and grown in Afghanistan, which gives a savoury depth; and long peppers from Java with their complex flavour profile that includes notes of ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom, saffron and wild black cumin from the Hindu Kush.
It’s difficult not to gush about Epice. But don’t believe us – go and taste for yourself.
- Lunch: Friday to Sunday, noon-1.30pm
- Dinner: Monday to Sunday, 6 pm-8 pm
(The first sitting for lunch is noon and the last sitting for dinner is 8 pm)
Details
Address: Le Quartier Français, corner Berg and Wilhelmina streets, Franschhoek
Contact: 021 492 4044
Website: lacolombe.restaurant/epice
Instagram: epice_franschhoek
ALSO SEE: De Tafel celebrates the flavours of fynbos
Written by Lorraine Kearney.
