Sótano: Sunshine and Seafood

Cape Town in the summer is a splendid place to be. The city is alive with joy; it vibrates with good times – to be honest, this glorious atmosphere is similar all over the world, but I am in Cape Town this summer and so I write what I know.

I also know that an aroma can instantly transport you back to a time and place, the memory so strong it’s as if you are still there. There is a proper scientific reason why the sense of smell does this better than the other senses, but let’s stick to the romance of memory today.

For me, the smell of salt, ocean breeze and fish grilling is so powerfully evocative of my young and carefree days in Türkiye it can instantly bring me to my knees, awash with longing (even though I am a lifelong vegetarian and have never actually tasted seafood).

And so lunch at Sótano Seafood and Sushi to sample its new menu, on a gloriously hot and sunny day, was the mission du jour. Not that Sótano is a Turkish restaurant at all. It’s a seaside seafood café in Cape Town’s chic Mouille Point neighbourhood, just opposite the squat, red-and-white-striped Green Point Lighthouse.

Sótano’s Seafood Menu

The menu takes in the Mediterranean and Japan, loyal only to the ocean’s bounty. There are some ‘from the land’ options that include patatas bravas, lamb kofta, fillet, sirloin on the bone and, yes, steak tartare for good measure.

My plant people, for us there are things like wild mushroom croquettes, Mediterranean flatbread, salads and wild mushroom gnocchi. I can’t help thinking they missed a trick with all the wild marine plants that grow along our coast. Sea lettuce, anyone?

My dining companion, a certified seafood addict, was chomping at the bit.

The menu is big, with plenty of choice, from the more exotic tastes of squid tentacles to the honesty of the good ol’ fish and chips. If you’ve got a big appetite, the paella will see you right. It’s got peppers, tomatoes, chicken, chorizo, line fish, prawns, calamari and mussels. For the really hungry, the only thing to do is order the seafood platter for one and guzzle it all: mussels, prawns, line fish, calamari and squid tentacles, fries and sautéed seasonal vegetables. All the colours on one (big) plate.

Squid and Gazpacho

We started small: for my companion, squid tentacles paprika floured, deep fried and served with harissa aioli. She was very keen on them, but preferred them once she had picked off the batter, when they were pronounced ‘really good’. This is high praise from this particular person.

It was too hot, I felt, for gnocchi; here lay food coma territory. So I settled for three tapas, and it was a very good choice indeed. First was the hot honey halloumi of grilled halloumi cheese dripping in chilli-infused honey, with coriander yoghurt and pomegranate seeds served on a yoghurt flatbread. I am a sucker for squeaky cheese.

Then came a large tumbler of tomato gazpacho with truffle oil dressing and roasted garlic ciabatta toast. I have adored gazpacho ever since my brother served it ice cold with a shot of vodka one Christmas lunch years ago. And I still do – thank you Sótano.

I followed this with wild mushroom croquettes in panko crumbs, served with honey mustard sauce. It is a substantial dish, enough for a main. Three large croquettes stuffed to the gills with mushroom. It was a pleasing choice, but the honey mustard was an odd accompaniment.

And Sushi

It was sushi all the way for my fellow diner – and it was all well received. Wielding her chopsticks like a pro, she sang the praises of the sashimi, smacked her lips over the nigiri and thoroughly enjoyed the maki.

Well fed and watered, we wandered off, taking a little post-prandial stroll on the promenade. All in, a fabulous day, and a recommended place to dine when in the Mother City.

PS: Don’t Forget Your Paw Pal

Dogs have always been considered humans’ best friend. And yes, they’re cute and fun and loyal and part of the family. They’re also hungry. Lucky then, that at Sótano there is a whole Fur Babies menu. For your pooch, there is meatballs, beef stew, and more. Even Royal Karoo Venison Chews, or droëwors as it’s also known.