• Steamed prawns wrapped in spring roll pastry, flash-fried until crisp, then served hot. If you buy ready-cooked and de-veined prawns, this is an easy way to make an elegant snack or dinner party starter in less than 30 minutes. Cook’s tips • Spring roll pastry is found in the freezer section of Chinese supermarkets or major supermarket chains. If you can’t find it, substitute with samoosa pastry. • If you’re using frozen products, remember to defrost the pastry and prawns well in advance.

    “In the summer of 1917, when I had been at the Ritz seven years, I reflected upon the potato-and-leek soup of my childhood, which my mother and grandmother…